The Tastes and Scents of Barbados – Island Life

Of all of my travel reviews this is by far the country that I feel most passionate about.

When choosing which Caribbean island to visit many opt for the larger islands in the belief that they will provide more variety and activities. Do not be deceived. Yes Barbados is small but it has a big heart, there is more than enough to both see and do.

Despite having visited a number of times and benefiting from insider information, I’m yet to see even one quarter of the island and of what I have seen, I am happy to see it again and again and again.

This is probably as good a time as any to admit that I have a vested interest in this Island; my mother was born and raised in Barbados. The majority of her family are based on the island and whilst I am happily/proudly British, I am ethnically from the Caribbean and Barbados feels like home. A far hotter, sunnier and fabulously colourful home.

Home Away From Home

Second admission, notwithstanding the above, my first experience of island living came relatively late in life; I did not visit Barbados until I was 30. What can I say? My list of excuses is long but I have no one to blame but myself. My 30th year was a game changer; I did more during my 30th year than my 20s combined. I’m not quite sure how to explain it, why 30 was the time for change. Maybe it was due to a new found confidence built during my time in New York or the increase in my disposable income which provided financial freedom. Either way, 30 was a turning point for me and I have not looked back since.

I make up for lost ‘Barbados time’ at every opportunity. My husband and I have a healthy Barbados addiction and try to visit multiple times a year, air miles permitting. It is our special place, he even proposed to me there, it was perfect. Now to my Barbados must eat list.

There are a lot of preconceptions that Barbados has to be super expensive, this is simply untrue. Like any holiday destination, you can eat in the best restaurants, shop and go on as many excursions as you can fit in but it will all come with a price tag, like anywhere in the world. Alternatively, you can have a budget and research before you go to ensure you stick to it. Read the below and you can consider your research completed!

The Cliff & The Cliff Beach Club

These are two separate and distinct restaurants. The elder and most famous is The Cliff restaurant, it is known the world over. The younger, The Cliff Beach Club provides a casual dining experience while maintaining the high standards expected from its sister restaurant.

The Cliff is not the place to be seen, it has more class and longevity than that. It is a private experience to be cherished with someone special. It is the place to have been, an exclusive club that you’ll want to be a part of. To this point, one of the most special aspects of this restaurant is its following. I have shared countless memories of The Cliff with friends all over the world and everyone has a beautiful story to tell.

The menu reads like a European establishment but do not be fooled, you will not be confronted with plates of deconstructed recipes, foams and dehydrated vegetables. This is simple food done really, really well. Be sure to ask your waiter for a recommendation and you will be directed to options with expertly executed twists that will add an element of fun to your dining experience.

Please please do check the menu before booking as they have a set menu and set prices. This restaurant does come with a sizeable price tag but it is worth every penny.

For me location is key to a restaurant experience and The Cliff is no exception. My advice, start the evening upstairs sipping cocktails in their comfy chairs whilst enjoying the sea view.

Once you have finished your drinks you will be taken down to your table. Top tip, book as far in advance as you can to secure a good table, the restaurant takes bookings via email. To explain, the restaurant has a number of levels and you want, sorry need to ensure that you are seated in the area overlooking the sea with views of the waves, large fish and stingrays. I mean, the meal will taste the same wherever you sit but you can only get the full experience if sat on the deck.

On our last visit we were initially seated on the bottom level but not on the overhanging deck, the best seats in the house. Luckily for us, with a 6pm reservation, one of the first diners, they were able to accommodate my request to move tables. This may seem high maintenance but I am sure you understand if you have visited The Cliff before. If you are yet to visit please trust me on this.

The service at The Cliff is incredible. Not just because they have agreed to all of my requests to date but because of the way in which they interact with the diners. The waiting staff are professional and polite whilst being funny and attentive.

This is by far one of my favourite and indeed, one of the most romantic restaurants in the world. No Barbados experience is complete without a visit to The Cliff.

I nearly forgot to add, I am now able to smell The Cliff at home. Allow me to explain, one might think that The Cliff would be filled with the aromas of food but given the location, the restaurant is filled with the aromas of the ocean. The scent is fresh and light, not heavy with salt but delicately fragranced.

I was in The White Company last week buying baby clothes (not for me but for a friend) and I smelt their Ocean Tide candle, it blew my mind. It took me straight back to The Cliff and a perfect dinner with my husband. I love how every day experiences can invoke such happy memories.

Now to The Cliff’s sister restaurant, The Cliff Beach Club.

The high standard of food at the beach club is a given as so is the service but note that this restaurant is aimed at having high quality food in a more casual environment. Further, I had assumed that there would be access to the beach from the club, the clue being in the name, I was wrong. Whilst there is a pirate style plank extending out to a small platoon allowing fish and creature watching, this is not a beach club with sun loungers and chilled out beats.

I would suggest a midday visit to the beach club after you have sunned yourself in a nearby beach like the incredibly friendly Paynes Bay Beach or a visit for a chilled out dinner. Prices are not dissimilar to a London restaurant and you do not need to purchase from a set menu.

Cin Cin

Cin Cin is a European restaurant located on the West coast of the island, the majority of high-end restaurants are. This restaurant is like The Cliff in the sense that there is a seating area over hanging the sea which allows you to watch the waves and marine life whilst you dine. This is where the similarities end. This restaurant is modern and contemporary with a high-end beach feel. Another go-to restaurant perfect for a special occasion.

The service here is as you would expect given the price tag. The food is perfectly presented and I would suggest that you book a table on a Thursday through to Sunday when the restaurant is at it’s fullest and has the best atmosphere.

Please note that this restaurant does not offer a set menu, you can order more or less dependent on your budget. Further, I have been known to visit for a cocktail and a few of their lighter dishes later in the evening.

Daphne’s

Many of my friends in the UK have spoken about this restaurant over the years yet I had completely missed it when choosing where to dine on my previous trips. Luckily I chanced upon it by mistake last December; I was lounging on Paynes Bay Beach and walked south down the coast to escape the searing sun.

Having not planned to visit I was unaware that they only serve food during standard dining times; we visited at 4pm and the kitchen was closed. Thankfully they allowed us to select bar snacks and whilst a limited menu compared to their usual lunch and dinner menu the food was still tasty and fresh. Also, if I am honest, I was more concerned with having some wine. Thankfully they have some good tipples by the glass so I was happy.

Noteworthy, during the day, you can walk straight off the beach to dine but the evenings call for clothes as opposed to swimsuits.

Top tip other than rum shacks, Daphne’s is the only substantial restaurant around Percy’s Beach. Please do not think that you can continue to walk and find a moderately priced lunch. The next dinning establishments are the likes of Cin Cin and The Cliff Beach Club which have a higher price tag.

St Nicholas Abbey (an ex-plantation, restaurant and rum producer)

As a child growing up in the Northamptonshire/Bedfordshire countryside we were one of a handful of non-English families. My parents ensured that we kept to our Caribbean roots by visiting family and cooking the food but we were not surrounded by other islanders. Well, that was until we met a white Bajan family who had moved into our small town, I mean, what were the chances? My mother instantly became friends with them and I use to visit to make traditional Bajan/Barbadian food like rotis, banana bread and cou cou for the parents.

There’s a reason why I mention this, the owners of St Nicholas Abbey are also white Bajans, the Warren family. Simon Warren runs the Abbey and can be found in the rum shop at the back. He is lovely and reminds me of the sons in the family we became such good friends with all those years ago. I cannot deny that a lot of it is due to the accent, visit Simon and you will see what I mean.

Now, I am aware that alcohol can be somewhat subjective, one person’s 1940s J.Wray & Nephew (believed to be the most expensive rum in the world) is another’s Barcardi but trust me when I say that the Abbey’s rum is amongst the smoothest I have ever had the pleasure to taste.

One of the key features of the Abbey is that it was once a working plantation. They have built a museum out of the preserved plantation buildings. There are various exhibitions located around the grounds explaining the history of the island pre and post slavery. I found out a lot about Barbados when I visited and left in an enlightened state.

Also you can try some local food and the infamous rum punch in their restaurant.

At the back of the museum and cafe is the gift shop where you can purchase their rums. Now, this is where it gets special. Not only do you purchase rums but you can have your bottle hand engraved. I have done this twice now. In my mind, it is the most beautiful gift you can give to someone who appreciates fine rum and has an interest in the Caribbean. If any of my friends are reading this, I would love a bottle of the 12 year old rum #justsaying.

To be clear, this is in no way the kind of rum that you mix. This is the type of rum to be savoured, to be sipped. To be drunk at special occasions. In the dark rum they produce, 5, 12 and 18 year vintages. Something else I love about buying rum here, if you buy the 5 and 12 year and return with the empty bottle, you can have it refilled at a cheaper price than buying a new bottle. If you buy the 18 year old rum it can only be refilled with the 12 year.

I highly recommend buying a bottle of rum (I favour the 12 year old) as you can only buy this rum in one shop in the UK (Fortnum & Masons), as well as one in the following countries: US, Germany and Hong Kong. They also sell a white rum but I haven’t ventured that far……as yet.

When visiting the Abbey and taking a tour of the grounds I cannot impress on you enough that you have to go to the area where the rum is distilled and smell the barrels. They literally blew my mind. Not only did I smell cinnamon, spices and vanilla but tobacco. My nose was in a frenzy.

My brother-in-law gifted me a candle last year which was so reminiscent of the smells I experienced on smelling the rum barrel, Paddywax’s Tobacco and Vanilla candle (comes in both their Hygge and foundry collections). I adore this candle as it takes me back to the Abbey every time I burn it.

Please note that you have to pay to enter The Abbey as you will need to purchase a tour and the tasting. Click here to read about ticket prices. If you only want to order a bottle or refill a bottle, call or email The Abbey in advance to double-check how best to do this and whether you will need to pay for the full tour.

Mount Gay Rum

Mount Gay is a well-known name in the rum industry. It is stocked in supermarkets across the world with a vintage for every budget. I grew up with this brand. By that I do not mean that I have spent my life drinking rum but rather that this was a staple in the rum punches made by family and friends throughout the years.

A visit to the Mount Gay distillery/museum is a must for me. You can book a number of experiences from signature rum tasting to cocktail workshops. Whichever you choose know that you will be given the opportunity to try the full range of rums, there is literally something for everyone.

I opted for the cocktail workshop and found the tour to be thoroughly interesting, a worthwhile use of my time. It is when the tour ends that things get very serious and by serious I mean seriously fun. We were led into one of the bars where the cocktail making competition started; couples were pitched against each other with the aim of making the best cocktail.

Please disregard any ideas of a restrained cocktail making occasion, at Mount Gay you are encouraged to use as much and as many rums as possible. Once made, your cocktail is then passed around the group to be sampled with a vote held at the end. We were a group of at least 10 couples, there was a lot of cocktails to taste.

Top tip, at the time of our tour the cafe was closed (check this before booking). We could not access any food, a must when drinking so much rum. We went to the lengths of calling a taxi to take us to the nearest Chefettes (details below) to buy rotis. nothing stops a hangover better than a roti. I think that they have since increased the restaurant’s hours. Further, food has now been included into the price of some of the tours. Double-check before booking.

Chefette

This is one of the few ‘take aways’ on the island. There was a McDonald and as the story goes, it was burnt down. Now they have KFC and Chefettes, the latter serves one of the traditional dishes of Barbados. Before I launch into detail I beg something of you. On seeing this fast food restaurant, the logo and the uniforms, one might think it’s not worth a try. I urge you to go in and buy a roti, you will not be disappointed.

Think of it as a thin tortilla or chipati style wrap filled with beef, chicken and/or potato curry. This dish has its roots in Indian cuisine; Indians moved to the island over 100 years ago with the silk trade. They brought with them their cuisine which is now mainstream in Barbadian cooking. You can buy Indian rotis from most Indian restaurants but it is hard to find rotis from Barbados and Trinidad in the UK. Luckily, there are a few restaurants in West Indian areas of London that sell them. Oh and I also had a roti from a Trinidadian food van at an event at the London Zoo (long story). By and large, to enjoy a roti it must be cooked at home.

Rotis are incredibly labour intensive and can take hours to make. I am lucky in that my mother taught me how to make them when I was six or so and will produce them for family functions but they are not a daily occurrence. So, you can imagine my delight when I realised that you can buy them from Chefette, you can even get them at their drive through.

In ordering from here there are no bells and whistles. You get what you ask for, they are tasty and fast.

Don’t leave the Island without trying one and fear not, there is even one at the airport, just in case you forget.

Rotis are about the price of a McDonald’s and are a cheap way to sample island food. I suggest getting a take out and heading to the beach to watch the sunset.

Also, Chefettes sell pizza, chicken, salads and desserts too.

Bathsheba Beach and Round House Restaurant

This is the infamous part of the East side of the island where the seas of Bathsheba are notoriously rough. No one swims in the sea. The waves are enjoyed exclusively by top surfers and wind surfers. For me, Bathsheba was always somewhere to be feared. My mother use to tell us stories of how my great grandfather lost his life there when he was overcome by the waves whilst sailing a small boat. As a child I had visions of the sea literally eating him alive.

Despite the clear horrors presented by the sea, I love Bathsheba. There is nothing more relaxing than sitting at the Roundhouse restaurant and watching the waves hit the shore. Further, the drive to Bathsheba is beautiful. You are able to drive through the lush forest and see tropical birds, flowers as well as cheeky monkeys.

The food at the Round House is authentically Bajan and unbelievably tasty. The Round House is considered to be one of the best breakfast locations on the Island. Top tip, like us, eat during the morning so that you can enjoy their coconut bread. This is another dish I learnt to make when I was young and but hadn’t eaten for years. Take it from me, their coconut bread is the best I have tried, even better than mine.

Mojos

A staple when visiting Barbados and in need of a burger hit. I have been here a number of times over the years and have never been disappointed. The burgers are juicy, the fries crispy and priced for locals.

I tried a salad on my last trip and it was perfectly adequate, as so are the cocktails.

I would recommend this for adults and children alike. Top tip, book in advance as it can get busy. Also, dine as early as possible. The Service can slow down after 8.30pm due to its popularity amongst locals and tourists. Another top tip, take insect repellent if you plan to sit in the garden!

Limegrove Lifestyle Centre

This is my go to for dinner, rainy days, cocktails and much needed shopping fixes.

Limegrove is marketed as a Lifestyle Centre and I do not disagree. It is a modern complex on the West coast (Holetown) which houses stores like Longchamp, Michael Kors, Chopard and Ralph Lauren.

Amongst the shops are restaurants providing cuisines from Italian to Thai, Indian and Japanese. My favourite restaurant is the Japanese Fusion Rooftop. Admittedly it is one of the pricier restaurants in the complex. Then again, why would you not eat sushi when on an island where the fish is delivered from the sea to the restaurant in under an hour?

The complex is small in comparison to the mega malls of the US and UK. That being said, it does have 6 bars, 7 restaurants, art galleries and a cinema, all in addition to the shops.

Top tip, visit Limegrove on a rainy or overcast day, not that the rain clouds ever last long in Barbados. Further, this should be your go to when you do not have a reservation anywhere else. One of the many restaurants will always accommodate walk-ins.

Also, watch out for the sales. I have often purchased items cheaper than I could in the US, UK or duty free. Longchamp has particularly good sales.

The centre has a number of courtyards with bars where you can enjoy a drink at any time of the day.

As you can see, there are plenty of places to eat in Barbados and this post is just the tip of the iceberg. Look out for my next Barbados related blog post coming soon!